We’ll call this the “Golden Line.” Most travelers hit the whole Golden Triangle, but trying to squeeze in Jaipur too would’ve been way too rushed—next time, Pink City!
Agra
It would’ve felt wrong not to sneak in a visit to Agra while in the vicinity. We hopped on an all-day bus tour from New Delhi to Agra and back. The trip kicked off at the Agra Fort—an impressive red sandstone fortress that became the main residence of the Mughal emperors before the capital shifted to Delhi. We completely underestimated how stunning the grounds and intricate architecture inside would be.
After a lunch break, it was time for the big one: the Taj Mahal. We’d read that you could purchase entry tickets with a credit card at the gates, so we weren’t too worried about our lack of cash or pre-booked tickets. Unfortunately, that turned out not to be the case (at least not at the entrance we were brought to). With no cash and no functional Wi-Fi to buy tickets online, we found ourselves in a bit of a bind—until a persistent young man offered help. He claimed he was a tour guide whose clients hadn’t shown up and promised he could charge our credit card at his pal’s shop and then let us use their unclaimed tickets. It definitely seemed too good to be true, but we were out of options. Will future us be stressed about this gamble when we read this back someday? Possibly. Thankfully, it all worked out swimmingly!
Visiting the Taj Mahal was completely surreal. Having seen so many photos of this world wonder beforehand, it truly felt like stepping into a postcard. The closer we got, the more breathtaking the white marble details became. Thanks to our unlikely hero, we didn’t miss the ruby-inlaid details and symmetrical perfection of the mausoleum interior. The sheer beauty of the place was matched only by the bittersweet story behind it—built by Shah Jahan as a monument to his beloved wife Mumtaz Mahal, who died during childbirth. Talk about a grand love gesture!
There were two more stops planned after the Taj, but the final one to Vrinsavar was scrapped because the bus was way behind schedule. Chaos ensued. Passengers were furious. Yelling broke out between the group and the guide in a back-and-forth that went on forever. Since nearly all of it was in Hindi, we remained blissfully clueless. Ignorance is bliss? Maybe. The group lost the battle, the final stop was cut, and dare we say thank goodness. We still didn’t get home until 2 a.m. without it.
New Delhi
If we had started our trip in India with New Delhi, our first impression of the country would’ve been very different. Persistent haggling, dusty, garbage-lined, and seriously crowded streets made the city a bit of a sensory overload. While there are definitely beautiful pockets and must-see attractions here, we were too burnt out from sightseeing (and from feeling like a spectacle everywhere we went), so we decided to hide away in a movie theater instead. We saw The Diplomat in mostly Hindi, with just enough English sprinkled in to help us follow the plot. Another fascinating movie experience in its own right.
Tastes of Northern India
- Thali. The ultimate sampler platter, often served on a big metal tray with small dishes of curries, dal, raita, rice, and roti. Affordable, flavorful, and different everywhere you try it.
- Oh, the many delightful breads of India. Here’s our oversimplified power ranking of our favorites: 1. paratha 2. dosa 3. naan 4. roti 5. appam 6. kulcha
- Lassi. This rich, creamy yogurt-based drink is a classic way to cool down in the Indian heat. It can be sweet—with sugar, cardamom, or even mango—or salty, with a hint of cumin or other spices.
It seems the tales are true: India evokes a love/hate relationship in many travelers—especially in its largest cities. It’s hard to imagine another place where your senses can be so intensely overwhelmed and deliciously invigorated at the same time. Our desire to head elsewhere lined up perfectly with our flight to Turkey. We were ready to leave—but we’d absolutely go back again.
Silly Little Stats
- of beds slept in: 80
- # of countries visited: 11
- # of transportation modes: 14
- Bus (non-local): 31
- Plane: 18
- Ferry: 11
- Train: 5
- # of days since leaving Colorado: 244