We took the ultra speedy bullet train to Kyoto, and the views were lovely even at top speeds. Kyoto, the previous capital of the country, had a much calmer and more quaint feel compared to the bustling energy of Tokyo. Admittedly, this slower pace took a bit of adjustment (I guess we like a little more chaos?). In short, our time here was spent walking—covering an impressive 10–12 miles a day—and eating our way through the city.
Walking About
On our first day in Kyoto, we spent hours walking through thousands of vibrant red gates at Fushimi Inari Shrine, one of Japan’s most iconic landmarks. The gates, or torii, lead visitors up the sacred Mount Inari, dedicated to the Shinto god of rice and prosperity. The climb to the top allowed us to escape the crowds and take in panoramic views of Kyoto, offering a serene contrast to the tourist-heavy lower areas. All of the many gates symbolize wishes for prosperity and good fortune, and businesses often donate them as an act of devotion.
We explored the Gion district on a night walking tour, immersing ourselves in the world of geishas, or geikos as they’re called in Kyoto. These highly skilled women are cultural icons, trained in traditional Japanese arts like dance, music, calligraphy, and tea ceremonies. They also excel in conversationalism, making them highly sought-after entertainers in elite circles (even American politicians and generals previously). Our group had the rare opportunity to spot a geisha in her full performance attire—her painted white face and stunning kimono—and a few maikos, apprentices undergoing their rigorous five-year training. Gion is one of the few places where this centuries-old tradition remains alive.
The Arashiyama Bamboo Forest was another highlight of our walks in Kyoto. This enchanting forest surrounds visitors with towering bamboo stalks, creating an almost otherworldly atmosphere. Near the forest, the Togetsukyo Bridge and the surrounding canals were quite dreamy, especially with the autumn leaves turning every shade of red, orange, and yellow. The Kimono Forest was a beautiful stop and art installation near the train station as well with pretty glowing designs.
After a long day of strolling, we embraced a quintessential Japanese experience at Fu Fu No Yu Onsen (a public thermal bath). We spent the afternoon soaking in both indoor and outdoor baths in our birthday suits. Onsens hold cultural significance as communal spaces for relaxation, connection, and conversation. It’s a uniquely beautiful kind of intimacy that brings a whole new level of closeness to socializing.
Eats & Drinks
• Ramen, sushi, and set meals: You can never have too much of these staples. We also stumbled upon the most delicious Indian food in Kyoto.
• Matcha: Kyoto is famous for its matcha, and there are many matcha sweet stores dotted throughout the city. The matcha ice cream, creamy and lightly sweet, was our choice of indulgence.
• Vending machine coffee: Hot coffee from vending machines became our latest obsession. At under $1 a cup, it’s both budget-friendly and comforting. Kyoto even gave us a little bonus—a cat warming itself atop a vending machine. Coffee and cats: is there a better combo?
• Sake: Before leaving Kyoto, we knew we had to try a sake tasting. At Local Sake and Beer Stand 336, we enjoyed a cold sake flight and some hot sake for contrast. The experience was made even more enjoyable by the charming tiny cups and learning about the rice polishing ratio, which influences the flavor. Our favorite was the dry sake with the highest polish! Who knows maybe once we have a home again we’ll be offering guests sake.
One Last Stop: Osaka