There seems to be only one main way to get from Arequipa to Cusco: the night bus. This was our first overnight bus experience, and let’s just say one of us is rocked to sleep by any form of transportation (Kim) while the other desperately needs sleep the next day (Jack). However, after a slow morning of attempted napping and indulging in the best breakfast we’ve had in two months, we were ready to explore.
Cusco On Foot
If we’re being honest, our first impression of Cusco came with a bit of a lowlight. As fans of walking tours, we thought an Inca Ruins walking tour would be a lovely way to start. We thought wrong. After the tour time was pushed back twice and then canceled altogether, imagine our confusion when a “guide” showed up anyway, asking if we were ready to go. We went up to Saqsayhuamán and got a glimpse of other ruins while walking along the Inca Trail, which would have been fine and dandy if our guide hadn’t spent 80% of the time in complete silence, texting, or taking phone calls. The remaining 20%? Somehow worse, with him making vague, made-up answers to our questions and pointing out obvious things like faded animal carvings and rocks that, well, looked like rocks. After 2+ hours of internally debating how to escape, it finally ended—with a huge sigh of relief.
Determined to redeem ourselves, the next day we joined a traditional city walking tour, and it was everything we’d hoped for. Our guide was informative and fun, and we were back to loving the walking tour method. As the historic capital of the Inca Empire, Cusco is known for its blend of ancient Inca architecture and Spanish colonial buildings, with UNESCO status to prove it. The city’s elevation at over 11,000 feet also gives it a cool mountain air and breathtaking scenery, especially from a higher vantage point at San Blas View Point.
Museums
The Traditional Textile Center of Cusco is a must-visit. This free museum offers insight into the textile-making process, the roles men and women play at different stages of life, and showcases gorgeous handmade items, including traditional wedding attire. At the end of the visit, we watched two women weaving their latest creations, and we left with a newfound appreciation for handmade clothing. Jack was so inspired that we spent the afternoon searching for alpaca yarn for his newest project: a much-needed belt (to be continued..)
Our second museum stop was a perfect follow-up to the textile center: Mueso Maximo Laura. Maximo’s vibrant works feature intricate weaving that left us in awe. We had no idea that artwork like this existed. This free museum had us daydreaming about how one of his massive pieces might look in our imaginary dream home.
Our last museum visit was extra special because we got to share it with friends! That’s right, the ever-lovely Lauren and Matt flew all the way from Chicago to experience a bit of Peru with us. We visited the ChocoMuseum, where we enjoyed free tastings of 10 different types of chocolate. We were shocked to learn that real white chocolate exists—made from cocoa butter. Who knew? Not us, we felt a little lied to up until this point. We also learned that many Peruvians can’t process chocolate. More for us, I guess, but what a bummer to have a life without chocolate.
Salkantay Trek
After a day of exploration with Lauren and Matt, capped off with a cultural festival full of dancing and elaborate costumes, it was time to gear up for the 5-day Salkantay Trek. At the briefing (which felt more like a scare session), we met our hiking family: four Americans (us), two Belgians, one Swede, one Italian, and one Brit. Following the briefing, we packed our bags and had a slumber party at VIP House Hostel full of anticipation for the days ahead.
Day 1
The first day of hiking started bright and early (a theme for the rest of the trek), though it was relatively short. After a few hours’ drive to the trailhead, we kicked off with some get-to-know-you games with our hiking crew. After some begrudging participation (it felt a bit like summer camp), we hit the trail. Unfortunately, Jack and Matt were unsuccessful in getting our group name to be ganzo tantos (Spanish for silly gooses). Loco llamas would have to suffice.
The 6-mile acclimatization hike up to Humantay Lake and then down to camp was more challenging than expected. A special shoutout to our sea-level friends, who had only been in the mountains for two days—it’s tough up here! The glasslike turquoise waters of the lake made the effort worthwhile, though. Back at camp, we stuffed ourselves with food, played some games in our A-frames, and called it a night.
Day 2
We woke up to a knock on the door and coca tea for the “altitude” (a ritual we fully embraced). Day 2 was the toughest, taking us up to the Salkantay Pass at 15,000 feet. They call the last section the “gringo killer,” but we’re happy to report no gringos were harmed in the making of this trek. In fact, our group crushed it! At the top, we participated in an offering to Pachamama, which felt pretty special.
With high spirits and maybe a shot of Inka Tequila, we made the long, dusty descent toward lunch. The food was much appreciated, but the afternoon downpour? A little less so. By the time we arrived at camp, soaked and tired, we shamelessly downed piles of animal crackers and popcorn. At this point, the group had really gelled and found its groove. Our mini social experiment of living with strangers in nature for a few days was becoming a great success.
Day 3
Day 3 was a reward for the previous day’s effort. After our coca tea wake-up, we continued our descent into the highland jungle. Who knew jungles could exist in the mountains? Not us! This day was relatively light, with less than 10 miles of hiking, giving us plenty of time to play. Lauren and Matt soared through the trees via zip line for the first time, and we visited a family-run coffee plantation, where Kim reignited her love for roasting beans.
That night, we stayed in beautiful sky domes and devoured a mountain of guacamole (a real highlight). A trip to the thermal baths followed, where we celebrated our guide’s upcoming birthday with some shots. Our singalong car ride back revealed that hits like Mamma Mia, Hips Don’t Lie and WAP truly know no borders—what a bonding moment! By dinner, we were all in full friendship mode, and we even won over our European comrades, who admitted we’d changed their view of Americans. Go team!
Day 4
Day 4 was a bit of a mixed bag. On the bright side, we fully embraced the lush green jungle, got our first glimpse of the gorgeous Machu Picchu from afar, and made it to Aguas Calientes for real beds and hot showers. On the downside, Jack got stung by a relative of the bee, and we anxiously watched his hand swell. Unfortunately, our friends who traveled all this way were struck with stomach issues, and we were feeling pretty guilty that they were getting the full South America travel experience. They were such troopers carrying on.
Machu Picchu
Day 5 was our much-anticipated visit to Machu Picchu. We’d love to say we learned a lot, but our guide begged us to go without him so he could continue his birthday celebrations. So, off we went! Even without a guide, it was a special experience. We marveled at how Machu Picchu looks exactly like the postcard photos. It was also extra special to visit knowing that Kim’s brother-in-law proposed to her sister here at the top of Machu Picchu Mountain. It was fun to imagine what was going through his mind during that steep hike and final ascent to the top. Leave a comment below Tim.
We ended up extending our stay in Aguas Calientes so everyone could recoup and fully enjoy their Machu Picchu experience. Despite the ups and downs, the trek was incredibly memorable. We’re so grateful to have friends willing to spend their time and money flying across the world to join us. I’m not sure how we got so lucky.
Up next: the final stop in Peru—Puno.