Our final stop in the Philippines was the island of Bohol. After a few weeks with sand between our toes and exploring the underwater world, it was time for some mainland adventuring!
Tagbilaran
Tagbilaran is the capital of Bohol. This stopping point between Panglao and the hills of Bohol gave us a little taste of what life might be like here. We embraced the bustling mall culture and were extra pleased to have the chance to enjoy some plaza people (& pigeon) watching. Oh, how much we didn’t know we missed the plazas of South America.
Beyond trying to “do as the locals do” the American tourists in us naturally wanted to visit a museum. Please excuse our embarrassment as we admit that before this visit, we were wildly ignorant of the fact that the Philippines was a U.S. territory from 1898 to 1946. The more you know! We learned more about this at the National Museum of Bohol and through Jack’s perfectly timed reading of “How to Hide an Empire,” by Daniel Immerwahr. We unexpectedly found ourselves at an all-you-can-eat chicken wings restaurant that evening for dinner. We should 100% adopt the use of gloves to eat and not have to worry about messy hands.
Workaway
We were incredibly grateful for the opportunity to volunteer at Jolit’s Eco Bee Garden in Batuan for a week in exchange for free stay and meals. Jomer and his wife Lita (names combined = Jolit) started this small but mighty family farm together. The devastating typhoon in 2021 greatly impacted production, and a lot of hard work is being put into restoring it to its former state. Despite the challenges, Jomer and Lita have positioned themselves as important community leaders in sustainability. We had the privilege of witnessing a glimmer of magic as they hosted college students for internships, welcomed a huge group of high schoolers for a month-long immersion program, and supported community members who passed through daily seeking guidance.
During our time here, we harvested ginger, did lots of pruning, and reorganized potted fruits and vegetables to clear space for the new goat pen. Jack even helped build an outdoor kitchen sink from bamboo. We also learned some new tricks for helping plants grow roots using aloe and plastic bags and got a fascinating peek inside a stingless bee colony. We left with plenty of ideas for a future garden of our own growing ginger, making homemade organic fertilizers and pest control products, and maybe giving our future alpacas a goat friend. For a few moments, we also entertained the short-lived dream of having our own stingless bees, only to quickly realize they can’t survive in Colorado. It was fun while it lasted!
While we loved helping out and learning, what stood out the most was the sense of community. We were included in family meals three times a day, and the space was frequently used for karaoke and movie nights. This was a truly special week and the perfect way to end our time in this beautiful country, filled with the absolute kindest people.
One Last Ride
Jomer lent us his motorbike for one last ride together. Our first stop was taking in the view of the Chocolate Hills. These perfectly shaped mounds were still a unique sight, even though the “chocolate” part of their name didn’t quite apply this time of year when the landscape is greener from the rain.
Our next stop was the highly anticipated Tarsier Sanctuary, and wow, did it live up to the hype. These precious, tennis-ball-sized primates have ridiculously big eyes that can’t move and weigh more than their brains. It was a beautiful experience to silently admire these sleepy nocturnal creatures as they clung to trees, snoozing.
The final stop of our joyride adventure was Pangas Falls. We’ve chased a lot of waterfalls since August, but this one definitely didn’t disappoint. The current here was one of the strongest we’ve swum in essentially creating a natural jetted pool!
Eats & Drinks
Suman. We were lucky enough to be taught how to make this delicious dessert made from sticky rice and banana. The mixture is rolled into a banana leaf and then steamed. It reminded us of a fun twist on banana bread—just, you know, more glutinous and not at all bready.
Home-cooked meals. We were absolutely spoiled with three homemade meals a day. Our taste buds were treated to Filipino dishes like Bicol Express (with coconut milk and chili peppers), chicken adobo (soy sauce, vinegar, and garlic—what’s not to love?), and salted fish.
Rice, rice, & more rice. We also consumed more white rice than we ever had any business consuming. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner.
It’s wild to think we originally didn’t even plan to visit the Philippines and ended up spending nearly four incredible weeks here. The kindness we experienced while traveling through this country is going to be incredibly hard to top.