Buenos Aires already had us feeling like we’d entered something akin to a European vacation, but Bariloche truly made us feel like we were in the Swiss Alps. German and Swiss immigrants left their mark on the area with alpine architecture and chocolate-making. While these charming elements are a big draw, Bariloche also has a more complex history, as it became a refuge for Nazi officials fleeing after WWII—which is worth acknowledging.
This city sits at the northern edge of the iconic 400,000-square-mile Patagonia region, shared by Chile and Argentina. We’re excited to venture further south one day to do some trekking in this stunning expanse, but for now, this is officially the furthest south we’ve ever been! It was wonderful to slow down and spend a week surrounded by sparkling blue lakes and snowcapped peaks.
Hiking
We visited Bariloche right after ski season, and we couldn’t have lucked out more with the weather and trail conditions. With only a few snow patches left, we enjoyed long, sunny days outside with sunsets as late as 8:30 pm. These ideal conditions, paired with a convenient bus system to transport us to trailheads, allowed us to spend several days hiking through the breathtaking scenery of Nahuel Huapi National Park.
• Cerro Llao Llao – This low-effort, high-reward hike is a must-do in our book. We spent the afternoon sipping yerba mate and admiring views of the many beautiful lakes. At the top, we happened to meet a couple from Colorado traveling with their friends from Argentina! They complimented Jack’s mate abilities, which felt like a huge win. After chatting and soaking in the views, we decided to climb down to the water for a chilly dip—who knows when we’ll have another chance like this!
• Cerro Otto & Habsburg Stone – On the flip side, this hike was high-effort, high-reward. This steep uphill climb reminded us of the Manitou Incline we’ve tackled in Colorado, but instead of a staircase, we were hiking up a sand-covered hill. We’re pretty sure the people riding the ski lift up right above us had a good laugh! The effort was well worth it for the views of town and the lake below, which made a perfect picnic backdrop.
• Refugio Frey – This 12-mile hike begins with sweeping views of Lago Gutierrez and then winds through a lush forest. After several stream crossings and a boulder-filled ascent, we reached Refugio Frey and enjoyed a picnic lunch near the snow-covered Laguna Toncek. The changing scenery throughout this hike made it dynamic and memorable! Despite being a popular hike, the buses are much less frequent, so this hike turned into a little jog at the end to avoid feeling stranded waiting for an hour or two. We made it with a few minutes to spare!
Eats & Drinks
With our budget stretched further by the affordability of hiking, we had plenty left to enjoy the local flavors of Argentina. During our time in Bariloche, we ate more fresh-baked bread than anyone probably should in a week. Thanks to Vélo Bakery’s delicious and affordable loaves, we always had a massive loaf in our backpacks. Their day-old discount was also too good to pass up, letting us grab six treats for under $4. The carbo loading continues.
We leaned into the European influence of this town. Happy hour deals at Manush called for stouts—and Kim even ordered something other than an IPA! Bariloche’s main streets are lined with chocolate shops. After much deliberation, we settled on Rapanui, a massive spot that even has an ice skating rink inside. Chocolate for lunch, anyone?
After a week well spent surrounded by nature and savoring the flavors of Bariloche, it was time for our final stop in Argentina: Mendoza.