We traded island life for the big ole’ city of Bangkok. Can’t say we were overly charmed by this gritty city, but that’s not to say it was without some highlights. Admittedly, we’re a tad worried about any city we visit in the future being able to stack up against our beloved Tokyo. Consider us spoiled.
The Highs
Muay Thai – This now-official sport of Thailand has a long history rooted in ancient combat practices. Each match begins with a ceremonious dance, and the matches themselves are accompanied by live traditional music, setting the tone for the fight. We watched seven matches all containing some flying limbs (they don’t call it the art of 8 limbs for nothing), and a few ended in a knockout. The most fascinating part was the gambling spectacle occurring right in front of us—men juggling multiple phones, texting rapidly, shouting, and signaling with hand gestures. We still don’t fully understand how it worked, but it created an electric energy.
Massage – We treated ourselves to a borderline excessive two-hour massage for the sweet price of $12 (before tip). We joked we don’t like ourselves enough to pay the price this would cost us in the U.S., but spoiling ourselves here feels so accessible. Two beautiful hours with every knot and tense spot given proper attention. Who could complain?
Museums – Something we’ll never tire of in big cities is access to free attractions, especially museums. We visited the Natural History Museum, which was packed with fascinating specimens, and the Human Body Museum. The Natural History Museum stood out with its incredible collection of turtle and tortoise shells in every shape and size. Who knew pancake and star tortoises existed? Not us, but glad we do now!
Airport Lounge – We love lounge life when traveling: a few hours of indulgence where we can pretend we’re fancy people. While enjoying breakfast, Jack spotted who he thought might be Zac Brown (yes, from The Zac Brown Band). After some definitely not subtle laps by the two of us to confirm his tattoos, our detective work confirmed it was him. Jack introduced himself and what he tried to make a brief hello (as to respect the man’s time) turned into a very earnest 10–15 minute conversation about travel and interests. What a serendipitous morning!
The Not-So-Highs
Air Quality – While not outrageously bad during our visit, we definitely felt a difference. We couldn’t figure out why we both felt sluggish, fatigued, and mentally foggy. Taking cues from some of the locals, we grabbed ourselves some KN95 masks, and whether it was placebo or not, we started feeling much better. Gotta love full brain power.
Transport Failure – After easily booking a sleeper train from Surat Thani to Bangkok, we very wrongly assumed it would be just as seamless to arrange one to Chiang Mai. Sleeper trains were fully booked for the next two weeks, leaving us with only third-class tickets. Picture this: sitting on a rock-solid chair at a perfect 90-degree angle, sharing your seat with a stranger, and roaring wind from open windows for 14 hours. Sleep wasn’t an option, so we hopped off the train at midnight. The next morning, realizing this same exact train was our only viable option, we decided to pivot plans entirely. Knowing the air quality in Chiang Mai would be even worse, we rerouted to the Philippines instead!
Eats & Drinks
• Salads – Spicy papaya salad became a dinner staple, and mango salad offered a bitter yet refreshing switch-up.
• Tom Yum – This classic soup with its uniquely sour flavor quickly became a favorite.
• Khanom Thui – Set out on your table already prepared, these little bowls are hard to resist. This traditional dessert features two layers: a sweet, caramel-like bottom and a creamy, slightly salty coconut milk layer on top. The perfect balance of flavors.
• Boat Noodles (w/ company) – In our hostel lobby, we met Rosh, a fellow traveler from India, who invited us to join him for lunch. Sharing boat noodles with him was a reminder that the joy of travel isn’t just in the sights and flavors, but also in sharing it with the people you meet along the way.
• More Curry & Noodles – Nothing wrong with more of a good thing! We’re looking forward to recreating coconut-based curries at home.
While Bangkok wasn’t our favorite city, it left us with some memorable experiences and set the stage for our next adventure in the Philippines!
